Garment



2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR JOJEPH H/RSCH ATTORNEY J. HIRSCH Nov. 24, 1936.

GARMENT Filed NOV. 29, 1935 :B YIP .I i I l .2

2 Sheets-Sheet n1. nvllullllll Nov. 24, 1936.

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:IIIIIII VIII 'IIIIIIIIIIIIIII II ATTORNEY Patented Nov. 24, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT Joseph Hirsch, New York, N. Y., assignor to Kops Brothers Inc., New York, N.

of New York Y., a corporation Application November 29, 1935, Serial No. 51,984

2 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in garments of the foundation or corset type and more particularly to the novel arrangement of stays or stifl'ening elements in such garments.

The present improvements may be employed in a variety of different ways and in different forms of garments. They are particularly advantageous in garments formed in whole or in part of elastic fabric capable of stretching simultaneously in two dimensions. However, certain of the advantages of the improvements may be obtained when employed in conjunction with fabric capable of stretching only in one dimension or not at all.

A feature of the invention is the attachment of a stay in a garment in such a. way that relative movement may take place between the stay and the adjacent portions of the fabric without, however, changing the relationship between one end of the stay and a definite point on the garment. By way of illustration, the arrangement may be such that the upper end of the stay is always maintained in a definite relation to the upper edge of a girdle while the lower end of the stay has freedom of movement relative to the adja-' cent portions of the fabric. If the stay is associated with fabric capable of stretching in two dimensions, the freedom at the lower end may be one or both of two types,-that is to say, freedom of the fabric to stretch longitudinally of the stay without interference by the latter, and freedom of the lower end of the stay to swing laterally with relation to the confining fabric. In association with non-elastic material only the latter freedom of movement will be present.

The purpose of the construction is two-fold. In garments as heretofore constructed with stays having little or no freedom of movement relative to the fabric, it has been found that stays of satisfactory length for proper body support and confinement when the wearer is standing have a tendency to dig into certain fleshy portions of the body when the wearer assumes a sitting posture. Thus, stays provided at the front of a garment for the purpose of supporting and confining the abdomen have had a tendency to dig into the groin or thigh of the wearer when seated. Stays located at the sides of a garment in the region of the hips have had a similar uncomfortable effect. However, when stays are held fixed with relation to the garment at only one point, as at the upper end, and are free to move laterally at their lower ends, this objectionable action is avoided. With this construction when the lower end of a stay engages the groin it will be automatically cammed aside, one way or the other, or may be readily shifted so it will not create an uncomfortable pressure. I

A second purpose of the improved construction, as applied to portions of a garment capable of 5 stretching up and down on the body, is that it insures the positioningof the stay at the desired point. Thus, ordinarily in a girdle the action of the stay is desired from the upper edge of the garment down to a suitable point. Now, when a stay is freely positioned between two pieces of fabric capable of stretching longitudinally of the stay, there is no assurance that it will be located at the correct point. When a garment is formed of two-way-stretch material, for example, the 5 stay pocket may be, and frequently is, extended at least 50% of its original length. Under these conditions a stay eight inches long may be shifted as much as four inches out of its intended position. This, however, is overcome by the present invention.

Other features and advantages of the improved construction will appear from the detailed description of the invention which will now be given in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in 'which:

Figure 1 is a front view of a girdle embodying several forms of the improved construction;

Figure 2 is a view showing the girdle applied to a figure; I

Figure 3 is a substantially vertical section along the line 3-4 of Figure 1;

Figure 4 is a vertical section along the line 4-4 of Figure 1;

Figure 5 is an enlarged detail in transverse section along the line 5-5 of Figure 1, and

Figure 6 is an enlarged detail in transverse section along the line 6-6 of Figure 1.

Referring now to the drawings, there is illustrated a girdle type of garment which, by way of example, may be in the nature of a continuous body-encircling member formed by a front section l0 and a back section II joined together at their side edges by stitchings l2 and I3. In the preferred form of the invention thesections Ill and H are formed of material capable of stretching simultaneously in two dimensions. However, as will be explained later, this is not essential to the practice of the invention since certain of its advantages may be derived when other types of fabric are employed for one or both sections. On the inner face of the front section Hi there is secured a panel H of similar material, capable of stretching in two dimensions, this being secured to the front section by means of stitching ll of such character as not to interfere with the stretch of the material in either direction. The upper edge of the panel I4 is similarly secured to the section III by means of stitching It. A binding tape may, if desired, be used along the upper edge.

Within the relatively large pocket formed between the section III and panel ll there is provided a plurality of stiffening elements or stays l1, formed of any suitable material. Each stay is encased in a cloth container la, in which it is completely confined. The container I8 is secured to the upper edge of the girdle either by means of the stitching l6 or by means of separate stitching is, which, if provided, preferably attaches the upper end of the stay to the panel I. Throughout the rest of the length of the stay it may, if desired, be free to swing laterally to any position within the pocket defined by the stitching l5. However, it may be found desirable to limit the lateral or transverse movement of the lower end of the stay. This may be accomplished, for example, by the use of a tape 20, which may be stitched to the panel H at spaced points, as by the-stitching 2|. If the panel I4 is capable of stretching transversely, the tape 20 should be of elastic material or should be of such length between the stitchings 2| as not to interfere with the stretch of the fabric. With this arrangement the lower end of the stay is conilned to a movement limited by the spacing of the lines of stitching 2|. As stated, a plurality of stays of the character described will ordinarily be provided within the pocket defined by the stitching I5, two such stays being indicated in the drawings. However, a greater number may be employed or but a single one, if desired.

Stays may also be provided at the sides of the garment, if desired, to assist in confining the hips of the wearer. For this purpose a stay 22 may be employed adjacent each of the seams I 2 and I; in each of the sections I0 and II. The stays 22 are encased in fabric 23 in a manner similar to the stays IT. This fabric is then attached to the section III or II, by means of stitching 24. A strip 25 of either one-way or two-way elastic material is applied over the stay 22 and is stitched to the appropriate section ID or I I by means of stitching 26. This tape may also be secured along its upper edge either by the stitching 2| or by a separate line of stitching.

It will be clear that the manner of attaching and enclosing both the stays l1 and stays 22 is such that the garment is permitted to stretch freely in a longitudinal or up-and-down direction without interference by the stay. At the same time the position of the stay with respect to the upper edge of the garment is definitely maintained. Accordingly the supporting and confining action of the stay is always exerted at the desired location. It will be recognized that thearrangement of the stays I1 is such that in addition to the foregoing advantage, their lower ends may be automatically cammed to one side or the other if and when the lower ends of the stays have a tendency to dig into the groin or thighs of the wearer.

While the invention has been described as applied to a garment capable of stretching in two dimensions, i. e., one formed of two-way-stretch material, some of the advantages of the construction are derived in its application to nonstretchable materials. For example, the front of the garment might be incapable of stretchin in either direction, in which case both the section III and the panel ll would be formed of non-elastic material. The advantage of shifting the lower end of the stay either automatically or otherwise, in the case of an uncomfortable pressure as the wearer assumes a sitting posture. is derived in this case also. Furthermore, as will be apparent, the stays will always return to their original positions when the wearer stands up again. The advantages of both of the arrangements provided for the stays l1 and 22 may be derived in connection with one-way-stretch elastic material. For example, if the stretch of this material is in the direction longitudinal of the stays or up and down in the garment, it will be desirable to insure the positioning of the stay in a definite relation to the upper edge of the garment in spite of the elongation of the confining pocket and it may also be desirable to permit the free, lateral movement of the lower end of the stay.

It should be understood, furthermore, that while the invention has been disclosed in connection with a girdle type of garment, it is applicable also to combination garments of various sorts. In a combination garment the upper ends of the stays will, of course, be secured in a definite relation to some point in the vicinity of the waistline of the garment rather than with relation to the top of the garment. In fact, in any garment the upper end of the stay may, if desired, be secured at any desired distance below the upper edge. Furthermore,,while the stay is preferably secured to the fabric at its upper end, it may be secured at any other convenient point. While the stays have been shown at the front and sides of the garment, they may also be placed in the rear section, or they may be located at any one of these positions exclusively and the arrangement shown for either of the stays l1 and 22 may be adopted at any point.

Numerous other changes and variations may be made in the details of ,the construction and it is to be understood that the terms and expressions employed herein are for purposes of description and not of limitation.

What I claim is:

1. In a garment of the class described a section of fabric at the front of the garment capable of stretching up and down on the wearer, a plurality of vertically disposed stays each having one end secured to said section and having its other end free to move relative to said section, a single piece of elastic fabric secured to said section over said stays to provide a large pocket enclosing said stays and permitting lateral movement of said other end of each stay within the pocket, and means within said pocket for limiting said lateral movement to less than the range permitted by the size of said pocket.

2. In a garment of the class described a section of fabric at the front of the garment, a plurality of vertically disposed stays each having one end secured to said section and having its other end free to move relative to said section, a single piece of fabric secured to said section over said stays to provide a large pocket enclosing said stays and permitting lateral movement of said other end of each stay within the pocket, and a tape secured to said piece of fabric for limiting said lateral movement to less than the range permitted by the size of said pocket.

JOSEPH HIRSCH. 

